While the rest of the expedition ferried loads to stockpile Camp I, Petzoldt and House continued scouring the ridge for campsites. The snow gully led to more rotten rock, which led to a buttress whose base would be the location for Camp VI.Above Camp VI lay the black pyramid, a near 1,000-foot buttress of dark rock that loomed over the expedition while they were scouting the ridge a month earlier. Each ridge had its own question looming over it. Bates and House returned to the Savoia Glacier.


Once again the prospect of finding a campsite seemed slim and hopes began to waver.

They were certainly welcome when we came down at 4:15. With permits for back-to-back years, the main focus for the 1938 expedition was to reconnoiter the mountain and three ridges to determine the best route to the top. The expedition would get a close look at the Abruzzi Ridge and the northwest ridge and return to the Savoia glacier if no route seemed better than what had already been discovered on the northwest ridge.Continuing with the trend, the first views from the east side of K2 were not positive. The climbing on the route is primarily ice. The treacherous terrain was difficult for two unloaded men; it would be near impossible and reckless to attempt with a full load of supplies. This meant there were five routes that had to be explored and hopefully at least one with a viable route to the summit.The party, given the task that was laid before them, was relatively small. Petzoldt was prepared for this possibility and held fast to the rope around House’s waist. The confluence of the glaciers provided a centralized basecamp that allowed the expedition to have relatively easy access to both glaciers for reconnaissance.Once base camp was established at 16,600 ft., the first task was to reconnoiter the Northwest Ridge. With extreme serac avalanche danger in the lower section, a curved gully (the "Hockey Stick") that crosses prime snow slab terrain, and constant spindrift avalanches in the upper portion of the route, challenging, sustained climbing. Most climbers leave between 10 p.m and 1 a.m. for the summit. Above Camp VI lay the black pyramid, a near 1,000-foot buttress of dark rock that loomed over the expedition while they were scouting the ridge a month earlier. With supplies dwindling and difficult terrain between camps a prolonged storm would potentially be catastrophic to the group, added onto that the porters were due to arrive in seven days.Before retreating down the mountain, one final push would be made. This was not only the first American expedition to the mountain but the 3rd ever attempt on the mountain and the first since the Duke of Abruzzi attempted K2 in 1909. Although this is more horizontal terrain (approx.
K2 등반의 75%는 Abruzzi Spur를 통해 이루어진다.

Camp II was found. The climb up to Camp VI took serious skill in route finding and saw Petzoldt and Houston turned back at multiple points.

The north side was prone to avalanches from high up the mountain and neither appeared to offer sites suitable for establishing camps. It was first climbed and named after Bill House, when he free climbed it on the 1938 American K2 … Petzoldt and Houston worked their way up the route; Petzoldt, with fine intuition about where the path lay …

Could the northwest ridge be reached without devoting a lot of time and energy to carve out steps? The chimney now bears his name. It included Charles Houston, Robert Bates, Paul Petzoldt, Richard Burdsall, Bill House, Captain Norman Streatfeild (British Liaison Officer), 6 Sherpa porters and 3 camp men.On May 13, 1938 the party departed Srinagar to begin their 362-mile approach. where the route then traverses the East Face and finishes on the Abruzzi Spur. If you are not afraid of avalanches, this is the route. This 500’ took four hours to achieve and would be an entire days work when moving supplies. It was climbed in 1986 by a Polish team, and is still the hallmark More importantly there were no major injuries and everyone involved survived the attempt high up the Savage Mountain. feet below here.The route was pushed higher and a good campsite was found for Camp VII at 24,700 ft.

It is With extreme caution, loads were carried to Camp III and more ropes placed to further secure the treacherous sections of the route. With the need for so much fixed line and the tendency towards large teams, one primary consideration is the limited camp space at C1 and C4. On February 24, The American Alpine Club will celebrate the first American ascent of the world’s second-highest peak, K2, at Photograph of K2 from the Baltoro Glacier, taken by Vittorio Sella in 1909.

It reads:Thanks a million for the campsite and tent. After a good look at the Abruzzi Ridge, they reported that it didn’t look promising.The northwest ridge wasn’t out of the question, but the obstacle of ice would be a time consuming one. It is perhaps the most compelling route in the Himalayas – a vast, sweeping ridge running from 17,000 feet to the summit. The snow was deep and anything that fell down the gully disappeared into nothingness. Bates and Burdsall had made a trip down the Godwin-Austen Glacier and through brief clear weather windows were able to completely rule out the south face due to avalanche danger. Three routes remained as options: the northwest ridge, the northeast ridge and the Abruzzi Ridge. The ground grew steeper and steeper with any ledges discovered sloping downward. C4, at anywhere from 7600 to 7900 meters on the Shoulder, is still a solid 16-22 hours from the summit, so you should start brewing immediately (don’t spend too much energy building a platform, you won’t have time to sleep anyhow). The south side of the ridge seemed like it could go but would require long stretches of travel through icy gendarmes that could topple over onto anyone traveling beneath them. C1 is typically placed inside a bergschrund (a deep crack in the snow slope) to the right of the ridge. If they could make their way up the black pyramid, K2’s 2,200-foot summit cone would be within reach.Petzoldt and Houston worked their way up the route; Petzoldt, with fine intuition about where the path lay ahead, led over steep technical rock and eventually up another snow gully that led to the top of the pyramid.


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